Like the everyone in the world everywhere, I’ve been beyond excited to see the first episode of the new series of Succession. No spoilers if you haven’t watched it, but it didn’t disappoint.
Of-course the clever scripts and amazing acting are the main reasons we love it so much, but I have another reason to be obsessed. The genius that is the costume department and what they do with Shiv’s wardrobe never fails to fascinate me. The subtle messaging says so much, without saying anything at all.
Season one, casual Shiv, was all about oversize sweaters and earth coloured easy separates and she even sported a baseball cap. In her job as a political consultant she was slightly more polished, with additional paisley scarves and her hair worn loose and wavy. None of her wardrobe was particularly expensive, with lots of pieces coming from Theory and the like. So far, so not the obvious wardrobe of an ultra wealthy woman.
Season two saw Shiv glow up - ever so subtly - with a lob (soon to become a power bob) and the appearance of the first of many roll necks, softly tailored trousers and neutral suits. This was to become her go-to wardrobe and when I suspect, the costume department decided she had outsourced her style to a professional consultant.
Finding a corporate style she was comfortable with - turtle necks, silk blouses, coat dresses and pant suits - she embodied bland power dressing to the max. Tonal neutrals removed the need to create outfits and didn’t make too much of a statement and her clothes were saying, ‘I’m a sophisticated woman in a mans world, but I’m important and don’t spend too much time on frivolous things’. MaxMara, Armani, Ralph Lauren and The Row were her labels of choice and they would almost certainly have been brought to her and Tom’s apartment by her stylist, as she didn’t have the time or inclination to go actual shopping.
In Season three her look evolved yet again, but not in a good way. Her suits started to look cheap, everything was too big or too tight and her entire sartorial sense of self seemed to be hanging by a thread. And here’s why I love the Succession costume department. The more she struggled for power and found herself out of her comfort zone, the worse her clothes got. Culminating in the most disastrous wedding outfit in the history of wedding outfits.
Shiv had either sacked her stylist or didn’t get her involved with her outfit choice for her (hideous) mother’s Italian wedding. Perhaps she stopped off in the UK with Tom on their way to Italy, where she spent an afternoon in Covent Garden desperately trying to find something to wear. When it comes to family events when she’s required to be a human, she’s lost. She tried to soften things up with colour, prints, oversize floppy hats and some glam earrings, but got it all wrong, panicked and bought something from Ted Baker - Ted bastard Baker - no-one shops at Ted Baker, certainly not a billionaire’s daughter - what was she thinking?
And last and not least - the shoes - oh dear oh dear the shoes. They were the work of pure genius, badly fitting, uncomfortable and totally unflattering - we all know don’t we - if you don’t have shapely legs, you don’t wear an ankle strap. Maybe she had also popped into the New Look footwear department on Oxford Street - no point in going over the top, she doesn’t even like her mother
Obsessed me - obviously - and I literally can’t wait to see how Season four ‘Shiv style’ evolves. Personally I think she looks best in darker colours that compliment her hair, but of-course that’s not the point!
OMG you are sooo right here Jane , her wodrobe was even discussed by my husband as well who noticed her badly fitting clothes , roll on season 4 , wish it could be watched as a box set but the excitment built up during the week is worth the wait xx